Pockets are always an important element to any garment and/or pattern. When you find a pocket style that you love, you can easily sew it into virtually any other pattern! Whether it be a patch, hip, zippered, welt, or inseam pocket, just grab those pieces from your pattern envelope and, with a few modifications, you can build your perfect new garment.
In this episode of Style Revive, I pocket swap the pocket pieces for the Zadie Jumpsuit and Pagosa Pants pattern. I have already sewn each pattern several times; the paper pieces were easy to access in my studio, making it a quick swap.
Watch to see how to remove a hip pocket style and replace with a patch pocket, and then read below to learn how to do the reverse . . .
I left off with a fun fitting of my Zadie jumpsuit.
Finishing the Zadie Jumpsuit
Now all that needs to be done is the hems and binding, which I’ll go through now.
Finish the armhole and pant hems and press up desired hem width.
Topstitch hems in place. Remove the arm of the machine to make it easier to topstitch the armhole openings.
Pin the binding pieces right sides together along the short seam.
Stitch and press allowances open.
Use a bias tape maker to press the strip folds.
Pin and baste the belt pieces to the jumpsuit right above the waist seamline.
Continue pinning the bias tap around the entire opening, catching the belt pieces. I aligned the seam on the binding with the center back seam of my bodice.
Carefully topstitch the bias binding about 1/8” away from the fold.
Once the binding is stitched to the points in the front crotch curve, place the fronts right sides together, matching up the binding, and stitch. Finish allowances together and press to one side.
I really love the patch pocket style on the Zadie; it gives it a nice utilitarian look. I would love to remake this variation again in darker fabric with bright contrasting topstitching, or cut the pocket pieces in another fabric.
It’s always fun to do a little hack to a favorite pattern, and this is definitely one of my favorites. I think next time I want to transform this jumpsuit with patch pockets into a pair of pants! That’s always a fun road to go down; once you do one hack a million others pop into your mind.
Sewing the Pagosa Pants with the Zadie Jumpsuit Pockets
Now that I have made my Zadie Jumpsuit without the pocket piece, I’m going to utilize it in my Pagosa Pants project to complete my pocket swap.
You’ll start with your pocket pattern piece and the pants front pattern piece.
First align the waistline points and on the pants pattern mark the top pocket opening notch.
Then slide the pocket to match up with the side seam and waistline to mark the other pocket opening notch.
On the pants pattern, connect the two pocket opening notches with a straight line.
Add seam allowance and trim off or fold the side piece.
Cutting and Sewing
Cut two pocket pieces and all other pant pieces including the waistband. I decided to omit the belt in my version and instead insert an elastic into the waistband.
Pin the pocket piece right sides together with the front pants.
Stitch and press allowances towards the pocket and understitch.
Fold the pocket pouch in half, matching up the bottom edges right sides together.
Stitch and finish allowances together.
Flip the pocket to the wrong side and match the pocket seam to the side and waist notches on the pocket piece. Baste along the waist and side seam to hold in place.
Pin the back pants to the front, right sides together.
Stitch and finish the allowances together.
Press the allowances towards the back.
Pin and stitch the inseam right sides together. Finish allowances together and press to one side.
Repeat entire pocket and seam process for the other leg.
Flip one leg to the right side and insert into the other. Match the crotch points, front crotch curve, and back crotch curve right sides together. Stitch and finish allowances together.
At this point I realized I wanted to do some topstitching to hold the seams down flat.
Sewing the Elastic Waistband
Now it’s time to create the waistband for the Pagosa Pants.
Pin the front and back waistband pieces right sides together and stitch.
Press allowances open.
Press the entire waistband in half wrong sides together.
Pin the waistband to the top of the pants, matching up the side seams.
Stitch together leaving a small 2” opening near one of the side seams.
Wrap the piece of elastic around your waist until a comfortable circumference. Pass it through the opening of the waistband using a safety pin.
Once the elastic is threaded completely through the opening, stitch the ends of the elastic together.
Then stitch the opening closed.
Finish the allowances together and press allowances down.
Finish the hem edges and press up allowance width. Topstitch.
I really love the fit of the Pagosa Pants, and I love side hip pockets — now I have the best of both worlds. These are sewn with stretch denim from March Tilton, so it’s like I have a new pair of jeans now too!
The side pockets make this pattern look completely different while maintaining the original fit, which I love. I can’t wait to make another pair with another pattern’s pocket.
Piece-swapping is so much fun to do and there are so many ways you can interpret it. Swap sleeve shapes, collars, and other fun details from patterns to mix and match your entire pattern library.
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