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Pocket Pattern Swapping the Zadie Jumpsuit and Pagosa Pants | Style Revive Season 3, Episode 5

Style Revive Pocket Swap header

Pockets are always an important element to any garment and/or pattern. When you find a pocket style that you love, you can easily sew it into virtually any other pattern! Whether it be a patch, hip, zippered, welt, or inseam pocket, just grab those pieces from your pattern envelope and, with a few modifications, you can build your perfect new garment.

In this episode of Style Revive, I pocket swap the pocket pieces for the Zadie Jumpsuit and Pagosa Pants pattern. I have already sewn each pattern several times; the paper pieces were easy to access in my studio, making it a quick swap. 

The Pagosa Pants and the Zadie Jumpsuit
Left: Pagosa Pants from Sew News | Right: Zadie Jumpsuit from Paper Theory Patterns

Watch to see how to remove a hip pocket style and replace with a patch pocket, and then read below to learn how to do the reverse . . .


I left off with a fun fitting of my Zadie jumpsuit.

Finishing the Zadie Jumpsuit

Now all that needs to be done is the hems and binding, which I’ll go through now. 

Hemming the Zadie Jumpsuit

Finish the armhole and pant hems and press up desired hem width. 

Topstitch hems in place. Remove the arm of the machine to make it easier to topstitch the armhole openings. 

Binding pieces for the Zadie Jumpsuit, right sides together

Pin the binding pieces right sides together along the short seam. 

Stitching and pressing the allowances of the binding for the Zadie Jumpsuit

Stitch and press allowances open. 

Using a bias tape maker for the Zadie Jumpsuit

Use a bias tape maker to press the strip folds. 

Pinning and basting belt pieces to the Zadie Jumpsuit

Pin and baste the belt pieces to the jumpsuit right above the waist seamline. 

Pinning bias tape along the opening of the Zadie Jumpsuit bodice

Continue pinning the bias tap around the entire opening, catching the belt pieces. I aligned the seam on the binding with the center back seam of my bodice. 

Topstitching the bias binding to the Zadie Jumpsuit

Carefully topstitch the bias binding about 1/8” away from the fold. 

Finishing the bias binding on the Zadie Jumpsuit

Once the binding is stitched to the points in the front crotch curve, place the fronts right sides together, matching up the binding, and stitch. Finish allowances together and press to one side. 

Meg's Zadie Jumpsuit with patch pockets

I really love the patch pocket style on the Zadie; it gives it a nice utilitarian look. I would love to remake this variation again in darker fabric with bright contrasting topstitching, or cut the pocket pieces in another fabric.  

Meg modeling her Zadie Jumpsuit with patch pockets

It’s always fun to do a little hack to a favorite pattern, and this is definitely one of my favorites. I think next time I want to transform this jumpsuit with patch pockets into a pair of pants! That’s always a fun road to go down; once you do one hack a million others pop into your mind.

Sewing the Pagosa Pants with the Zadie Jumpsuit Pockets

Now that I have made my Zadie Jumpsuit without the pocket piece, I’m going to utilize it in my Pagosa Pants project to complete my pocket swap.

The pocket pattern piece from the Zadie Jumpsuit with the pattern pieces for the Pagosa Pants

You’ll start with your pocket pattern piece and the pants front pattern piece.

Aligning the waistline points on the pocket and pants pattern to mark the opening notch

First align the waistline points and on the pants pattern mark the top pocket opening notch. 

Aligning pattern pieces to mark the second pocket opening notch

Then slide the pocket to match up with the side seam and waistline to mark the other pocket opening notch. 

Connecting the two pocket opening notches on the pants pattern

On the pants pattern, connect the two pocket opening notches with a straight line. 

Adding seam allowance and trimming the side piece off the Pagosa Pants pattern

Add seam allowance and trim off or fold the side piece. 

Cutting and Sewing

Cut two pocket pieces and all other pant pieces including the waistband. I decided to omit the belt in my version and instead insert an elastic into the waistband. 

Pinning the pocket pattern pieces right sides together with the front pants pieces.

Pin the pocket piece right sides together with the front pants. 

The pocket pattern piece stitched to the pants front piece.

Stitch and press allowances towards the pocket and understitch. 

The pocket pouch piece folded in half, right sides together

Fold the pocket pouch in half, matching up the bottom edges right sides together. 

The pocket seam stitched together, attached to the pants front piece

Stitch and finish allowances together. 

The pocket flipped to the wrong side and matched to the side and waist notches

Flip the pocket to the wrong side and match the pocket seam to the side and waist notches on the pocket piece. Baste along the waist and side seam to hold in place. 

Pinning the pants front pieces to the back pieces

Pin the back pants to the front, right sides together. 

Stitching and finishing the side seams on the Pagosa Pants

Stitch and finish the allowances together. 

Pressing the Pagosa Pants side seam allowances to the back

Press the allowances towards the back. 

The inseam stitches stitched together on the Pagosa Pants

Pin and stitch the inseam right sides together. Finish allowances together and press to one side.  

Repeat entire pocket and seam process for the other leg. 

The Pagosa Pants with the crotch seams sewed together, featuring set-in pockets

Flip one leg to the right side and insert into the other. Match the crotch points, front crotch curve, and back crotch curve right sides together. Stitch and finish allowances together. 

Topstitching to hold the seams down flat

At this point I realized I wanted to do some topstitching to hold the seams down flat. 

Sewing the Elastic Waistband

Now it’s time to create the waistband for the Pagosa Pants.

Pinning the Pagosa Pants waistband pieces right side together

Pin the front and back waistband pieces right sides together and stitch. 

Pressing the allowances of the Pagosa Pants waistband pieces open

Press allowances open. 

Pressing the Pagosa Pants waistband in half

Press the entire waistband in half wrong sides together. 

Pinning the waistband to the top of the Pagosa Pants

Pin the waistband to the top of the pants, matching up the side seams. 

Stitching together the waistband seams, leaving a small opening

Stitch together leaving a small 2” opening near one of the side seams. 

Inserting elastic into the waistband of the Pagosa Pants

Wrap the piece of elastic around your waist until a comfortable circumference. Pass it through the opening of the waistband using a safety pin. 

Stitching the ends of the elastic together for a stretchy waistband

Once the elastic is threaded completely through the opening, stitch the ends of the elastic together. 

Stitching closed the waistband seam of the Pagosa Pants

Then stitch the opening closed. 

The Pagosa Pants with the waistband seams pressed and finished

Finish the allowances together and press allowances down. 

Finishing the hems of the Pagosa Pants

Finish the hem edges and press up allowance width. Topstitch. 

Meg's Pagosa Pants with set-in pockets

I really love the fit of the Pagosa Pants, and I love side hip pockets — now I have the best of both worlds. These are sewn with stretch denim from March Tilton, so it’s like I have a new pair of jeans now too! 

Meg's Pagosa Pants with set-in pockets

The side pockets make this pattern look completely different while maintaining the original fit, which I love. I can’t wait to make another pair with another pattern’s pocket.  

Meg modeling her Pagosa Pants with set-in pockets and her Zadie Jumpsuit with patch pockets

Piece-swapping is so much fun to do and there are so many ways you can interpret it. Swap sleeve shapes, collars, and other fun details from patterns to mix and match your entire pattern library. 

Also make sure to subscribe to our YouTube channel to never miss an episode. We’ll be airing new episodes of Style Revive every Tuesday into the first week of July!  

Happy Sewing!  
Meg

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