Hack Lite: Embroidered Tie-Sleeve Roscoe Dress

Today I’m continuing my Roscoe Blouse/Dress love affair with another dress hack, this time from the new Fall 2020 issue of Creative Machine Embroidery. This Hack Lite features simple sleeve plackets with a tie closure and works best with a gathered neckline blouse or dress pattern with gathered sleeves, such as the Roscoe or the Boho Blouse pattern.

As with my prior Roscoe pattern Hack Lite from back in March, I removed the center front opening and tie. Depending on the size of the neck opening, it’s possible that you don’t need an opening at all — and that was the case with the Roscoe. If the neck opening isn’t big enough for your head, loosen the gathering and extend the length of the neck binding (or skip the binding and go with elastic for a drop-shoulder option).

The most complicated part of this hack involves moving the center front opening to the sleeves to create a simple placket. I shortened the opening slightly, to 5 inches, and placed the opening on the sleeves, approximately 8 1/2 inches from the sleeve front. I traced the openings on the sleeve fabric and then prepped the fabric for embroidery.

Embroidering the Placket

The design that I used is the Adobe Brick border from our Southwest Placket Embroidery Design Collection, but any placket-style design with an opening down the center will work. And the article in the magazine includes instructions for creating your own with a border design. (If you act fast, you can download this exact design for free through Oct. 31, 2020!)

I embroidered the design first (or actually, my co-worker Kate did – thanks, Kate!) and then constructed the sleeve placket using the same instructions and steps for the neckline opening, with a 1 1/2” x 6 1/4” rectangle for the placket facing.

I also extended the length of the sleeve binding to 3.5 times the length of the pattern piece to create the ties. The binding runs off the end of the sleeve openings and the excess is tied in a bow.

Rather than using the gathered panel dress option that comes with the pattern, I opted for a straighter silhouette to accentuate the sleeves. I also extended the blouse hem about 16” straight down, kicking out a bit to accommodate the hips.

This pattern just keeps on giving! It’s perfect for lightweight summer dress and also for fall hacks, in case your fall sewing list needs an additional Hack Lite or two.


Embroider Your Own Placket

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