• Basic straight-leg pants pattern with front & back darts (such as Vogue 9181)
• Linen fabric and notions (double the fabric amount listed on the pattern envelope)
• 8” zipper
• Pattern or tracing paper
• Rulers: curved and straight
Cut out the pattern pieces (1).Copy the front pattern to a new piece of paper; do not copy the darts. Measure the width of the leg, divide by two and add 1” to calculate the wrap width. Measure the distance of the wrap width from the side seam, and draw a line parallel to the grainline.
Measure 1” down from the waistline on the parallel line and mark. Draw a curve from the side seam to the mark on the parallel line. Cut the panel along the marked lines (2).
Check the pattern pieces against the diagram below (3).
From the linen, cut two pant fronts, two pant backs and two wrap panels.
Stitch the front and back darts as marked.
With right sides together, stitch the front and back panels along the inseam (4). Press open the seams. Repeat to stitch a second leg.
With right sides together, stitch the right and left sides of the pants along the crotch seam (5). Press open the seams.
Fold the front edge of the wrap panel 1⁄4” to the wrong side. Press. Fold the edge again 1⁄2” to the wrong side; press and topstitch. Repeat to finish the second wrap panel.
Sandwich the wrap panel between the front and back pants panels along the side seams with right sides together. Both the wrap panel and the front panel should face the back panel right sides. Stitch the side seams, leaving the top of the left leg seam open for inserting the zipper. On the right leg, leave 1” open at the top of the seam (6).
Turn the pants right side out. Apply the zipper on the left side seam.
Measure the length of the waistline on the pant front and add seam allowances. Cut a strip of fabric that measures 21⁄2” wide by this measurement for the front waistband.
Fold the waistband in half lengthwise with right sides together, and stitch the side seams. Flip the band right side out, and press it lengthwise.
Align the waistband right side with the pant wrong side along the waistline. Stitch; press the seam allowances toward the waistband. Fold the remaining waistband edge under, pin it to the pant front along the waistline and topstitch in place.
Measure the length of the waistline on the pant back and the wrap panels. Add 40” to the length. Cut a strip of fabric that measures 2 1⁄2” wide by this measurement.
Fold the waistband in half lengthwise with right sides together, and stitch together the side seams. Turn the waistband right side out and press it lengthwise. Mark the lengthwise mid-point on the waistband; align the mid-point with the center-back seam.
Align the waistband right side with the pant wrong side along the waistline. Stitch and press the seam allowances toward the waistband.
Fold the remaining waistband edge under, pin it to the pants right side along the waistline and topstitch. Fold the loose waistband long edges in; press. Pin the open edges together, matching the folds.
Topstitch the waistband ties as close to the edge as possible.
Close the slit in the right leg side seam.
Pin the front waistline to the back waistline; topstitch.
Hem the pants.