Clothes Minded: Seasonal Sewing
Living in Boulder, Colorado, means four distinct seasons each year. A few weeks before the temperatures start to dip in September, a sort of innate maker instinct reminds me that it’s time to start thinking about seasonal sewing projects. For weeks before I start the actual sewing process, I sort through a mental checklist of what clothing items I need, what fall trends I’m drawn to and what colors I’d like to focus on that season. The ideas for my fall and winter wardrobe marinate in my mind for a good month before I’m ready to dive into the sewing process.
ASSESSING THE BASICS
A new pair of jeans are the first thing I sew when the weather starts to get a bit cooler, because I know I’ll be wearing them nearly every day. If my classic blue jeans from last year are still in great shape, I’ll sew up a pair of black or colored jeans to mix it up using a technique for copying a pair I love. Or I’ll reach for my tried-and-true Buttress Jeans available at my shop Allie Olson or even the Ginger Jeans from Closet Core Patterns. I’m usually testing out a new denim to make sure it has the stretch and recovery that most fitted jeans require, so it’s a fun experimental process every time.
Next, I take stock of what type of tops I need. I sew at least one button-up shirt (Grainline Studio’s Archer or Hey June Handmade’s Cheyenne patterns are my favorite) every season, typically in plaid fabric. I’m currently loving plaid double cloth, because it provides opportunities for color blocking and pattern play. I also like to sew a few relaxed blouses, such as the Beatrix Blouse by Made by Rae or the Dove Blouse by Megan Nielsen. For those, I choose a flowy rayon challis or silk crepe fabric in a fun print. I gravitate towards warm reds and cool blues for these tops because I know how great I feel when wearing those colors.
A few of Allie’s favorite patterns:
Every fall, I’m typically in need of some new cold-weather loungewear and pajamas. I like zip-up hoodies for walking the dog in the morning, so every few years I sew up a Hey June Handmade Halifax Hoodie in a cozy solid-colored French Terry. A pair of black or gray True Bias Hudson Pants is typically in order along with a rayon jersey Lane Raglan for a new pajama set.
BUILDING IN COMPLEXITY
As my handmade wardrobe has started to reach a point of sustainability where I don’t need to add a ton of new clothing items each season, I’m focusing on more complex clothing items. Last year I sewed up a much-needed rain jacket using my Lonetree Jacket sewing pattern, and it’s been a great light outer layer for days that I don’t need to wear a winter jacket. This year, I plan to sew a tailored leather jacket. I know the process will take longer than I’m used to, but I get excited to work on something that requires a bit more research and skill each season.
Sew Daily jacket patterns:
FALL & WINTER TRENDS
I have to admit, I’m not someone who likes to emulate every passing trend of each season. I tend to passively observe what trends wax and wane, and participate in only those that really resonate with me. The trends that come and go quickly, like the recent off-the-shoulder and ruffled-everything garments, don’t often appeal to me.
But the longer-lasting trends that tend toward minimalism and androgyny are in my wheelhouse. I like classic yet simple silhouettes because I’ll wear those garments for years to come, possibly most of my adult life. I shy away from trends that are overly feminine or have a younger appeal because they just don’t reflect how I feel on the inside. I think of myself as a headstrong and intentional person, and I want my clothes to reflect that.
FALL FABRICS & COLORS
In Boulder, fall mornings can be bitterly cold but usually lead into warm (even hot) autumn days. I tend to layer natural fibers with the intent to shed them as the day gets warmer. I like to wear rayon year-round because it’s breathable and drapes beautifully. Cotton and linen are my go-tos for more structured items like trousers and button-up shirts. Tencel (a rayon-based fiber) is also a great fall fabric because it’s typically opaque and has a heavy drape, making it ideal for dresses and skirts.
Suede and leather are classic fall choices and some of my favorite materials to work with. A lined suede pencil skirt will get wear for years to come and can be dressed up or down depending on the styling.
Thick knits are also a great fall choice for cardigans and blazers. Rayon-based Ponte is one of my favorite fabrics for patterns like the Grainline Studio Morris Blazer, while I love a drapey ribbed knit for a duster-length cardigan.
In the fall, I tend to reach for earth-toned colors, such as rust red and camel brown. Ivory-colored flowy blouses look great set against a saturated bottomweight fabric like a sienna brown cotton twill. Metal and leather jewelry complement the warm colors of fall and really pull together a look. In general, my fall fabric selection is based on the colors from nature: warm, natural hues in fibers that breathe and layer well.
No time to sew?
If you don’t have the time to sew every garment from scratch, secondhand clothes are a great option to create a more sustainable wardrobe. Here are three strategies for adding thrifted garments into your fall clothing rotation.
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Search for sweaters in the summer. Thrift stores are a goldmine of unwanted sweaters, especially in the summer months. Start hunting for sweaters in June, as you’ll get the best deals then. Don’t worry about finding sweaters in your size. If you have a serger you can easily take in the side seams and arms. Or wear it oversized with a pair of fitted jeans for a casual fall look.
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Size down men’s button-up shirts. If you’re not keen on shirt making, thrifting men’s button-up shirts is a great alternative. The beginning sewist will find a fast and easy project in simply bringing the sleeves and side seams in a bit to create a slouchy top with a dropped shoulder. If you wear rolled cuffs, there’s no need to shorten the sleeves or modify the cuffs.
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Repurpose leather jackets. It’s not uncommon to find a large men’s leather jacket at a thrift store for less than $25. Cut the jacket apart to use the leather for your own jacket or a handmade bag, such as the London Backpack. Cutting leather into long, narrow strips, braiding them together, and attaching snaps makes for a great wraparound bracelet to complement your fall wardrobe.
Steps for planning a fall wardrobe:
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GET TO KNOW YOUR COLOR PALETTE. Understanding my personal color palette has been a game changer, especially in fall and winter sewing. In summer, I tend to wear brighter colors, but it took a few years for me to understand that my fall color palette is more muted. In the colder months, I like to wear neutral colors, so I’m always looking for navy, gray and brown bottomweight fabrics. The prints I choose typically follow that color palette too, with a little bit of red thrown in.
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BUILD YOUR WISH LIST IN EARLY SUMMER. Indiesew has a great wish list tool that makes it easy to keep tabs on what you want to make. You can add comments next to each item to note what kind of fabric you want to use and other modifications you want to make. Many people’s sewing practice slows down in the summer, so this is a good time to do more planning.
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HUNT FOR FABRIC SALES DURING THE SUMMER. Summer months are the slowest for most sewing retailers, so hunt for sales on bottomweight fabrics and shirtings during July and August. Prewash the fabric as soon as it arrives so that it’s ready for your projects as soon as sewing inspiration hits!
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START YOUR RESEARCH EARLY. If you want to tackle a more challenging project this fall, start researching techniques early. There are a lot of great online jeans making workshops that provide invaluable step-by-step instruction. If shirt making is on your list, bookmark useful resources to reference when sewing. This will motivate you to get sewing when cold weather hits.
This article originally appeared in the Sew News July/August 2018 issue and updated September 2, 2024. Written by Allie Olson. You can find Allie’s patterns and more information about her here.
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