Friday Sew-Along: Making the One-Seam Maxi Skirt, Part 2

Last week I started working on my designer take on the One Seam Maxi Skirt project by Caroline Hulse. I kicked off the project by watching the video by the same name, where Caroline took me through making the skirt. Her video style is sew-along as well, so there were no fast cuts to the next step and I could be assured of not missing a thing. Caroline has some excellent tips as well, such as how to sew knit in a regular machine with a stretch stitch and using spray starch and a quick press to keep knit edges from curling. This project is also published in the upcoming Stitch Summer 2015, so look for it there as well.

(1)  I selected my fabric, which is this awesome Burberry Ikat knit that I got at a sinfully low price through my knit pattern making class at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City.  

1. Designer Ikat knit from Burberry! 2. I like the wide bands to run lengthwise. 3. No hem for me, and plaid makes for easy cutting.
4. I cut the yoga waistband with bands running across. 5. Check your knit's stretch carefully. I had to make my waistband big enough to get past my hips, yet small enough to stay on! 6. I went with a 1/4" seam allowance tocut bulk.
Love this skirt styled with a peasant blouse and silver sandles. Spring, here I come!

2. I really prefer the wide color bands of this fabrics to run lengthwise on me, so I have decided to make the length of my skirt run on the cross grain, called the courses in knit fabric (the lengthwise grain is called the wales.) This will give my skirt more stretch across my hips but it won't matter because the skirt is gathered. And because my length is along the courses, where there isn't as much stretch, the maxi skirt won't have a tendency to grow as much in length.

3. After determining my waist and hip measurement and factoring in ease and stretch (see the video),I just quickly cut out my skirt rectangle. Having a paid made it super-easy. I am leaving the hem raw because I prefer that look in knits–so much easier and edgier. 

4.The yoga waistband is just a rectangle also. I kept the selvedge because it's easier to measure from and I want to keep the cool color chart as part of my design.

5. Unlike the video, I decided to make my waistband about 2 inches wider than my waist because the knit is more stable and less stretchy. Once I factor in the seam allowance, it will be plenty snug, but still fit over my hips.

6. I sewed in a 1/4 inch seam allowance to keep the bulk down. Also, I chose to put the seam allowance on the inside of the skirt to keep my waistband from rolling up and exposing the seam. This skirt took about 1/2 to sew, after cutting. Pretty amazing! I am so ready for spring!

Get Caroline's excellent One Seam Maxi Skirt with her great tips for sewing with knits on a straight stitch machine in the Sew Daily Shop. Or look fo rthe project in the upcoming Stitch Summer 2015. .

Amber Eden

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About Amber

Amber Eden is the editor of Stitch and She LOVES sewing and editing Stitch and She also loves dance, yoga, iced decaf triple espressos, and her two golden retrievers. She divides her time between Boston and New York.