Last week, we downloaded the Red Poppy Circle pattern from Stitch Spring 2015 and chose our fabric. If you want to catch up and sew along with us this week, you will need to download Stitch Spring 2015 from the Sew Daily Shop to get the pattern and instructions. (Heads up that I used the magazine instructions as a starting point and have deviated depending on the needs of this particular project.) This week, as promised, now that March is ready to quietly leave like a lamb, we will cut out, sew, and finish the skirt. Yes, it's really that fast! Let's go!
Step 1: Download the pattern and tape it together. Either cut out your size or trace off the pattern. Because this pattern is so simple, with just two pieces, it's not a must to trace off. Why not save time?
Step 2: I am lengthening the skirt slightly because I won't have the benefit of tights in summer. First, I pinned the pattern to the lining, and then I slid pattern paper under the skirt pattern edge, and taped the pieces to pattern paper. Using an 18-inch clear ruler, I measured down 2 inches from the bottom edge. I tried 3 inches, but my lining is not wide enough on the fold, so check your selvedge before cutting. You can always create a full version of the pattern, rather than cut on the fold and make this skirt as long as the width of your fabric will allow.
Step 3: The advantage of using vintage drape panels is that I have more fabric to work with, allowing me to place the pattern to avoid stains and discoloration. If your drape is lined, you could also use it as your skirt lining or interlining. I am going to use the same silk dupioni to line as the Poppy Skirt, but I'll use the drape lining as my interlining to give the skirt a more couture look.
Step 4: When I cut out the waistband, I left an extra 1/2 inch to give me some play. Better to trim excess than have too little.
Step 5: Keeping the interlining smooth, I pinned it to the fashion fabric. I clipped at the waist of the the interlining to allow fabric to spread evenly. I sewed the interlining to the self fabric within the seam allowance.
Step 6: After attaching the interlining to the fashion fabric, I stitched the lining to the self piece at the hemline and allowed a wide seam allowance when stitching all three layers.
Step 7: Matching right sides, lining to lining and fashion fabric to fashion fabric, sew along the center back, stopping and backstitching at the zipper notch on both the lining and fashion fabric sides. Press seam open along center back. Pin and baste the center seam above the zipper notch on the self fabric; leave the seam above the zipper notch open on the lining. (Note: I am inserting the zipper differently to have a finished back seam.)
Step 8: Close the zipper and lay it right side down on the fashion fabric basting line and pin. Sew along either side of the zipper tape using a grooved zipper foot.
Step 9: Open the zipper and carefully pin the lining to the zipper tape, down to the zipper notch. Stitch the lining to the zipper tape through all layers, using the grooved zipper foot.
Step 10: Stitch the lining waist to the fashion fabric / interlining waist. Matching raw edges, pin and stitch the waistband right side to the right side of the fashion fabric. Press up the long raw edge of the unstitched waist band 1/2 inch.
Step 11: Fold and stitch the short edges of the waistband so that one end overlaps the other by about 1/2 inch. Fold the waistband to the inside, making sure it covers the seamline. Pin and stitch in the ditch on the right side. Hand or machine stitch the short ends. Add the hook and eye, and done!
To sew along with us, you can find the pattern in Stitch Spring 2015, which is downloadable via the Sew Daily Shop. Next week, weill will start on the Shifting Plaids Skirt, if you want to work ahead!