Last week, I posted about turning a straight skirt into a flirty skirt for spring. Now I want to take it a step further and add an arty insert to that flared skirt. Yep, you guessed it, more cutting up patterns. Now that's my idea of fun!
It's a really simple concept and execution. If you take a flared skirt pattern, imagine designing a large swathe that runs from the front of the skirt to the back. There's really no more to it that that!
|Cut a large swath out of the front|
|And continue it to the back!|
Before you cut up your front straight skirt pattern to add flare, you just draw a couple of curved design lines through the front piece. Your front skirt will now be divided into three sections. As you slash the pattern to make the flare, be sure not to have the flare slashes extend through the design lines. Then match up the hiplines of the front and back pieces and continue your design lines to the back, adding the slashed flare lines in the same manner.
Next, cut up the front and back skirt along the design lines and put the front and back skirt pattern pieces on a new piece of pattern paper. Arrange and tape down the flare pieces as evenly as possibly. and add 1/2 -5/8" seam allowances. Create the waistband by drafting a simple rectangle with the height that you want and the length of the waist, plus your seam allowances. This is your new flared skirt pattern, complete with arty insert!
|Pattern pieces for skirt front.|
|Pattern pieces for skirt back.|
You can play around with the size and shape of the insert, but an upward swooping, graceful line is usually your best best. Or add the insert in a different color for contrast, keeping the fabric drape and weight the same. This is a good pattern for drapey fabrics like charmeuse or 4-ply silk; just be careful cutting out these fabrics as they can slip and accurate cutting is key with inserts!
Tip: The most important step is to get a continuous line from front to back. The inserts should match perfectly at the side seams so that it looks like the same piece.
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