For the past three weeks, I have been working with the most deliciously challenging fabric (silk velvet!) to create a cropped simple couture version of Caroline Hulse's Kimono Jacket that is featured in Stitch Spring 2015.
The pattern and complete instructions are available in the Sew Daily Shop, either in the digital magazine or a wonderful how-to video that Caroline created. You will need one of these to complete the project. If you are just joining us, take a look at Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3 to get started. And if you have been sewing along with me, let's get to it!
Step 21: I am now ready to attach the binding to the front jacket. I decided to use the pretty selvedge with the gold thread as the binding for the jacket opening, rather than the hem, so that it would show off nicely when the jacket swung open. After I stitched the bias binding tape to the center front, I trimmed the seam allowance to a scant 1/8" and then turned and basted the selvedge edge. You could machine stitch the turned edge, but the simple couture goal is to eliminate bulk and untrimmed seams, and added thread increase bulk. After I hem the binding, I will just pull out the unknotted basting thread.
Step 22: Here is the other side of the basted selvedge edge. You ca see that the gold thread will show nicely when the jacket falls open.
|'40s Kimono Jacket by Caroline Hulse from Stitch Spring 2015.|
Step 23: I hemmed the binding with an invisible slip stitch, covering the seamline so that no stitches show. Simple couture trick: I never knot my thread to finish. Instead I take several small tacking tugged snugly to avoid having to hide an unsightly knot.
Step 24: To finish the neckline I trimmed the Center Front binding to 1/4", folded it under and enclosed it with an invisible slip stitch. It was tricky to get the velvet bias square, but I was able to pull in the corner to a square point by inserting my needle in the top, tugging down, and securing and tacking the thread into the seam. A little deft engineering!
Next week, just the hems left to go!