For the past two weeks, I have been working with the most deliciously challenging fabric (silk velvet!) to create a cropped simple couture version of Caroline Hulse's Kimono Jacket that is featured in Stitch Spring 2015.
The pattern and complete instructions are available in the Sew Daily Shop, either in the digital magazine or a wonderful how-to video that Caroline created. You will need one of these to complete the project. If you are just joining us, take a look at Part 1 and Part 2 to get started. And if you have been sewing along with me, let's get to it!
Step 15: Next we will attach the sleeves. Pin, then baste the sleeves to the body, wrong sides together. I had to trim up the edges a bit because. even when using the paper backing, the raw edges still weren't completely smooth. Note that my basting stitches are as close to raw edge as possible so that they don't get caught in the seam. I also didn't knot the end of the basting thread so that it pulls out easily after stitching, and I was careful to fold the shoulder French seam to the back of the garment.
Step 16: In stitching the sleeve seam. I went again with a 1/4-inch seam allowance for the first seam of the armhole French seam to allow for turn of cloth. Velvet is bulky!
Step 17: I pinked the raw edge as close to seam allowance. The advantage of pinking is that it keeps the fragile fabric from unraveling while also allowing you to rub away any raw edges that are not full captured by French seam.
Step 18: I also pinned and basted the second step of the French seam on the armhole to keep the fabric from slipping. I basted just below the encased pinked edge so that I could stitch just below basting in order to be sure to fully encase the pinked edge.
Step 19: I sewed a 3/8 inch seam just outside the basting line.
Step 20: Pin and baste the side seam and underarm seam, and stitch a 1/4 inch seam, matching the armscye French seam, folding the seam toward the sleeve. The basting will help you match the armscye seam accurately. Trim way any bulk from the French seam meeting. Finish this French seam in the manner as the armhole seam. Trim the bulk away where the seams meet before enclosing in the French seam.
Next week, just the front binding and hems left to go!