Friday Sew-Along: Make a Mod Mini Dress / Tunic by Alexia Abegg, Part 3

I took a couple of weeks off sewing to attend a sewing event and shoot the Tula's House video series. It's definitely not too late to join, as we has only chosen fabric and cut out the dress. You can get the pattern and instructions by downloading Stitch Summer 2015 from the Sew Daily Shop. 

I really love the two silks that I bought at an Indian fabric store in Jackson Heights, Queens–so much that I am having a hard time deciding which one to use as the main and contract fabrics. In the end comfort won out. Because I am planning to fully line the dress instead of facing it, I want to have the soft touch of the light silk as the lining and use the embellished silk as the main fabric. It may seem like an obvious choice to use the plain green silk as my contrast fabric, but I do love playful linings as well. However, I want to avoid the scratchiness of the gold thread from the embellished fabric on the lining. 

It's going to be a bit of a mind-twister figuring out how to line vs. facing. We'll see how I do: 

Step 6
Step 7
Step 8
Step 9
Step 10
Step 11
Alexia Abegg's A-Line Mini Dress from 
Stitch Summer 2015

Step 6: I decided to use the embellished silk as my main fabric.

Step 7: I am going to mark my darts using tailor's tacks. I just mark the dart point and the end of each of the dart legs with a small loop or two by taking a small bite with my needle through all fabric layers. It's much faster and easier than using chalk or some other marking tool. The thread comes right out and leaves no mark. 

Step 8: I like to use contrasting thread for the tacks, so that it shows up. 

Step 9: Separate the layers carefully and snip, so that a tuff of thread remains on each layer. If a tuft falls out, just remark it. 

Step 10: I always put a pin at exactly the dart point. I will be sewing four darts–two for the lining and two for the self fabric.

Step 11: I like to sew from the dart point, as it's so critical to hit that point exactly. I also tie a knot at the dart point–tight enough to secure but loose enough to avoid puckering. If the dart intake is too deep I also trim it, but this one is fine and I don't want the loose weave of the silk to unravel. I never backstich on either end of the dart, in case I need to redo. Plus, backstitching at the point causes puckering, which will really show up on this shiny fabric.

That's all I'm going to do this week. Darts are important enough to take a whole post! Enjoy your 4th!

Get the instructions and pattern for the A-Line Mini Dress in the Sew Daily Shop. 

Amber Eden

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About Amber

Amber Eden is the editor of Stitch and She LOVES sewing and editing Stitch and She also loves dance, yoga, iced decaf triple espressos, and her two golden retrievers. She divides her time between Boston and New York.