Zippered Pocket Tutorial
Learn how easy it is to insert a zippered pocket! We’ll show you step-by-step how to insert a zippered pocket into a dress, blouse or tunic.
This zippered pocket is added to the side seams of a simple sheath dress or tunic top. Adding to the side seams makes it super easy. Not only does the zipper keep the pocket contents contained, but it also adds a bit of edge to an otherwise simple garment.
- Simple dress or top pattern with side seams (such as a sheath dress or tunic-length top)
- Fabric & notions according to pattern envelope, plus ½ yard additional garment fabric
- Two 6”-long metal zippers
- Removable fabric marker
Download the Zipper Pocket pattern. Print and then cut out. Cut out two pocket pairs from the garment fabric. Mark the welt opening and inner cutting lines on the fabric wrong sides using a removable fabric marker.
Cut out the front pattern of the desired garment. Mark the desired pocket placement upper edge. Place the pattern piece on a dress form or your body and mark the desired pocket opening, taking seam allowances into account. Mark 1” above the previous mark; this is the pocket pouch upper-edge placement. On the featured sheath dress, the pocket pouch upper edge is 11” from the armscye lower-edge point, placing the zipper opening 12” from the armscye lower edge.
Place the garment front right side up on a flat work surface. Lay two pocket pouches right side down with the pouch upper edges matching the marked pocket placements; pin along the side seams. Stitch along the marked rectangle through all layers. Cut down the rectangle center and clip the corners (1).
Turn the pocket piece toward the garment-front wrong side through the cut rectangle; press. Place the pocket over the zipper so the teeth are centered in the opening and the zipper stop is at the rectangle upper edge. Depending on the zipper-tape width, it may extend beyond the seam allowance. Pin, and then edgestitch the opening to the zipper tape, pivoting at the corners. If needed, install a piping or zipper foot to the machine to stitch as close to the seam as possible (2).
From the wrong side, lay the remaining pocket pieces over the stitched pockets with right sides together, matching the edges. Pin the outer edges, being careful to not catch the garment fabric in the pins (3).
Stitch the pocket curved edges, making sure the excess garment fabric is away from the needle along the side seam (4).
Serge- or zigzag-finish the seam allowances together (5).
With right sides together, pin the garment front and back along the side seams. Stitch the side seams, catching the pocket side-seam edges in the stitching. Stitch close to, but not over, the zipper and edgestitching (6).
Serge- or zigzag-finish the seam allowances independently; press open. In order to press open around the pocket, clip into the front seam allowance above and below the pocket edges. Let the pocket seam allowance lay toward the back so the pocket pouches lay toward the garment front (8).
Finish constructing the garment according to the pattern guidesheet.
The featured Mint Dress is a BurdaStyle pattern, available on SproutPatterns.com. What does that mean? This pattern is delivered to you without any paper to tape together. The lines, marks and notches are digitally printed onto custom fabric yardage and shipped to your door, ready to cut out and sew.
Each BurdaStyle purchase comes with the digital pattern file for reference and future sewing, plus a video tutorial to walk you through the necessary sewing techniques.
Plus, you get to choose from the entire Spoonflower library of fabric prints to personalize your dress–you can even upload your own designs! Pretty sweet, huh?