Sewing At The Speed Of Slow
“Tiny details imperceptible to us decide everything!”
_ W. G. Sebald, Vertigo
I recently made this dress. The dress pattern from Simplicity has, like many do, facing pieces. Facings are commonly used in dresses and blouses.
My experience with facings has been filled with puckers, ripping out and frustration. In other words I generally hate facings. When you put in a facing you need to pay attention to the seam allowance and clip, notch, grade etc in order to get a nice flat finish. I ended up ripping it all out (of course AFTER I had clipped, graded, notched etc leaving me with the tiniest seam allowance) and instead applied binding to the neckline. And, now it lays nice and flat, plus there's not flipping out of the facing.
Now sometimes, not frequently I will have no problem with facings. However, I'm not sure what I'm doing right, need to pay more attention on that. Generally, though I think I'm going to forgo the facings and just put in binding. It is a heck of a lot easier.
This fabric is a slinky, almost like silk but it is a poly so it's not easy to iron, with a crisp finish. Hmm, I'll need to make note of that maybe it's more the fabric that's giving me fits.
What's your opinion on facings? I would love to know how you make these facings look professional. Until then if you have trouble like I do, I found a really great resource of giving finishing touches to garments without facings. Lynda Maynard in her book The Dressmakers' handbook of Coture Sewing Techniques shows step-by-step how to apply bindings rather than facings to neck lines and sleeves.
Here's why I like her book and her take on facings.
As I take my garment sewing from a 'fast and furious' method to a more 'slow boat to China' route, this book will come in handy in showing a more couture way of doing things. I'll keep you posted as I move through the chapters!
I would love to know how you tackle facings and where you've had success with facings. What fabric did you use, give me details on the blog!
Fashion designer and expert sewist Lynda Maynard makes professional sewing and finishing techniques accessible to ...