Thank you! – Read below for all the how-tos for sewing up your own version of sailor style pants.
We love a good pattern hack! This Sailor Pants hack by Ana Jankovic is a perfect technique to create a nautical-themed pant from a favorite high-waist pants pattern. Follow the steps below to sew your own!
High-waisted pant pattern with front & back darts (such as Vogue 2532)
Fabric & interfacing (amount according to pattern envelope, plus 1⁄2 yard)
Lining fabric scraps
Eight 1”-diameter buttons
All-purpose thread & notions (according to pattern envelope)
Tissue or pattern paper
Rulers: clear flexible & curved
Removable fabric marker
Hand sewing needle
Hand embroidery needle (optional)
Coordinating embroidery floss (optional)
Cut out the pattern pieces.
Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin fitting sample of the selected pattern.
Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings.
Mark the front pattern upper-edge center. Ignore the front dart. Draw a vertical line extending approximately 7” downward from the upper-edge mark. (The line lower end should be level with the front crotch line when wearing the pants.)
Draw a line at a slight diagonal angle connecting the vertical line lower end to the side-seam edge. This is the pocket upper edge.
Extend the vertical line by approximately 4”, ending level with the front crotch curve. Draw a diagonal line extending from the vertical line end, parallel to the pocket upper-edge line. This is the pocket lower edge.
Trace the front pocket area onto new paper. Measure the front-dart length and width; record. Using the recorded measurements, remove the dart amount from the pocket left edge by drawing a diagonal line connecting the pocket upper edge and left side (1).
To create the front-pocket facing edge, draw a curved L-shaped line 11⁄4” from the pocket left edge and upper pocket line (2).
Trim the pocket area from the front pattern along the vertical line and pocket upper-edge line. Cut out the pocket, and then cut along the pocket facing line. Label the upper section “pocket facing” and the lower section “pocket” (3).
On the back pattern, mark the center-back 8” below the upper edge. Draw a diagonal line from the side-seam edge to the mark, intersecting the dart lower point. This is the back-yoke lower edge (4).
Cut the back pattern along the dart legs and yoke line. Discard the dart.
Draw a 2”x5” rectangle for the pocket flap pattern. Diagonally trim the pocket-flap lower corners.
Center the pocket flap along the back-pattern upper edge, and then mark placement notches on the back pattern (5).
To create the front-facing pattern lower edge, mark the center-front edge approximately 31⁄2” from the upper edge. Draw a line extending from the mark, parallel to the upper edge, and then draw an L-shaped line 11⁄2” from and parallel to the cut pocket edges. Trace the facing pattern onto new paper (6).
To create the front-hip facing pattern, copy the pocket facing onto new paper. Mark the side-seam edge at the back yoke lower-edge point. Draw a diagonal line parallel to the lower edge, extending from the mark to the original pocket line. Trim away the lower section. Label the pattern “front-hip facing” (7).
Add 5⁄8” seam allowance to the pattern piece new cut edges.
From the fabric, cut one front pair, one pocket facing pair, one back pair, two side-back yoke pairs, two center-back yoke pairs, four pocket flaps, one front facing on the fold and one front-hip facing pair.
From the lining fabric, cut two pocket pairs.
From the interfacing, cut two side-back yoke pairs, two center-back yoke pairs, four pocket flaps, one front facing on the fold and one front-hip facing pair. Fuse the interfacing pieces to the
corresponding fabric pieces.
Serge- or zigzag-finish all piece edges before construction. Use 5⁄8” seam allowances.
With right sides together, stitch one left side-back yoke to one left center back yoke; press open the seam. Repeat to construct the remaining left back-yoke pieces; this is the left back facing. Repeat to construct the right back yoke and right back facing.
Align two pocket flaps with right sides together; pin. Stitch the sides and lower edge. Trim the seam allowance and then turn the flap to the right side; press. If desired, hand embroider the sides and lower edge using a long running stitch. Repeat to construct the remaining pocket flap.
Position the left pocket flap along the left-back upper edge according to the placement notches; baste. Repeat to baste the right pocket flap to the right-back upper edge.
With right sides together, stitch the left back-yoke lower edge to the left-back upper edge. Repeat to stitch the right back yoke to the right-back upper edge. Press the seams upward (8).
With right sides together, stitch the left front and back legs along the inseam; press open the seam. Repeat to stitch the right inseam.
With right sides together, stitch the crotch seam; press open.
With right sides together, stitch one left-pocket upper edge to the left front-facing lower edge, aligning the side-seam edges. Press the seam toward the pocket. Repeat to stitch one right-pocket upper edge to the right front-facing lower edge.
With right sides together, align the front facing with the pant front; pin. Stitch the upper edge. Trim the seam allowance and corners, and then fold the facing toward the wrong side; press. If desired, hand embroider the upper edge using a long running stitch (9). Mark three evenly spaced 11⁄2”-wide horizontal buttonholes along each front-panel inner edge. Stitch the buttonholes through the front and facing layers.
With right sides together, position the remaining left pocket over the left pocket facing, aligning the pocket upper edge with the pocket-facing lower edge. Align the side-seam edges; pin, and then stitch along the pocket upper edge. Press the seams toward the pocket. Repeat to stitch the remaining right-pocket upper edge to the right pocket-facing lower edge (10).
With right sides together, stitch the left front-hip facing to the left-pocket facing along the upper and inner edges. Fold the hip facing toward the wrong side; press. Repeat to stitch the right front-hip facing to the right-pocket facing.
With the right sides facing up, position the pant front over the constructed pockets, aligning the upper- and side-seam edges; pin (11).
Stitch the pocket inner and lower edges, and then serge- or zigzag-finish the pocket seams for additional reinforcement.
Pin the pocket and front-facing inner edges, leaving the pant-front fabric layer free. Hand stitch the pocket and front-facing lower corners together (12).
With right sides together, stitch the pant side seams; press open. Turn the pants right side out.
With right sides together, stitch the back-facing center-back seam; press open.
With right sides together, stitch the left front-hip facing side-seam edge to the back-facing left side-seam edge; press open. Repeat to stitch the right front-hip facing to the back-facing right side-seam edge.
With right sides together, position the constructed waist facing over the pant back and front-pocket facing, aligning the upper edges and side and center-back seams; pin. Stitch the upper edge. Grade the seam allowance, and then fold the facing toward the wrong side; press.
Cut open the buttonholes, and then mark the button placements along each pocket-facing inner edge. Hand stitch a button at each mark.
Mark each pocket-flap center H” from the lower edge. Hand stitch a button at each mark through all layers.
Slipstitch the front-facing lower edge to the pant front, making sure the stitches aren’t visible on the right side.
Hem the pants according to the pattern guidesheet.