Glossary

Sewing Kit

jason — Tue, 08 Feb 2011 15:25:00 GMT

The following items are essential for your sewing kit. Make sure you have these tools at hand before starting any of the projects:

- ACRYLIC RULER

This is a clear flat ruler, with a measuring grid at least 2" (5 cm) wide × 18" (45.5 cm) long. A rigid acrylic (quilter's) ruler should be used when working with a rotary cutter.

- CLOTH MEASURING TAPE

Make sure it's at least 60" (152.5 cm) long.CRAFT SCISSORS Use these for cutting out paper patterns.

- DRESSMAKER'S SHEARS

These sharp long-bladed scissors are used to cut fabric.

- EMBROIDERY SCISSORS

These small scissors are used to trim off threads, clip corners, and do other intricate cutting work.

- FABRIC MARKING PENS/PENCILS + TAILOR'S CHALK

Available in several colors for use on light and dark fabrics; use them for tracing patterns and pattern markings onto your fabric. Tailor's chalk is available in triangular pieces, rollers, and pencils. Some forms (such as powdered) can simply be brushed away; refer to manufacturer's instructions for the recommended removal method for your chosen marking tool.

- HANDSEWING + EMBROIDERY NEEDLES

Keep an assortment of sewing and embroidery needles in different sizes, from fine to sturdy.

- IRON, IRONING BOARD + PRESS CLOTHS

An iron is an essential tool when sewing. Use cotton muslin or silk organza as a press cloth to protect delicate fabric surfaces from direct heat.

- PATTERN PAPER

Have some pattern paper or other large paper (such as newsprint, butcher paper, or pattern tracing cloth) on hand for tracing the patterns you intend to use from the pattern insert. Regular office paper may be used for templates that will fit.

- SEAM GAUGE

This small ruler with a movable slider is used for marking hems, checking seam allowances, placing buttons, and more.

- SEAM RIPPER

Handy for quickly ripping out stitches.

- SPIKED TRACING WHEEL + COLORED TRACING PAPER

Use these tools for tracing patterns and markings onto your fabric.

- STRAIGHT PINS + PINCUSHION

Always keep lots of pins nearby.

- WEIGHTS

Pattern weights or small rocks are great for keeping fabric in place while drawing, pinning, and cutting.

* OPTIONAL . . . but good to have.

- FRENCH CURVE

A template of metal, plastic, or wood that includes many curved edges for constructing smooth curves.

- NEEDLE THREADER

An inexpensive aid to make threading the eye of the needle super fast.

- PINKING SHEARS

These scissors with notched teeth leave a zigzag edge on the cut cloth to prevent fraying.

- POINT TURNER

A bluntly pointed tool that helps push out the corners of a project and/or smooth seams. A knitting needle or chopstick can also be used.

- ROTARY CUTTER + SELF-HEALING MAT

Useful for cutting out fabric quickly. Always use the mat to protect the blade and your work surface (a rigid acrylic ruler should be used with these to make straight cuts).

- TAILOR'S HAM

A firm cushion used when pressing curved areas of garments to preserve the shape and prevent creases.

- THIMBLE

Your fingers and thumbs will thank you.

- ZIPPER FOOT

This accessory foot for your machine has a narrow profile that can be positioned to sew close to the zipper teeth. Zipper feet are adjustable so the foot can be moved to either side of the needle.

Zigzag with French Knots

stefanie berganini — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 21:27:00 GMT



Zigzag with French Knots

Working from right to left, bring the needle up at 1 and insert at 2. Bringing the needle back up near 2, repeat for the next stitch, but work from left to right. Complete a French knot near the open end of each zigzag.

Split Stitch

stefanie berganini — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 21:26:00 GMT



Split Stitch

Working from left to right, bring the needle up at 1, insert at 2, and bring the needle up near the right end of the previous stitch (between 1 and 2, at 3), inserting the needle into the thread to split the thread in two. When you're working with multiple strands of thread, insert the needle between the strands.

Whipstitch

stefanie berganini — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 21:26:00 GMT



Whipstitch

Bring the needle up at 1, insert at 2, and bring up at 3. These quick stitches do not have to be very tight or close together.

Slip Stitch

stefanie berganini — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 21:25:00 GMT



Slip Stitch

Working from right to left, join two pieces of fabric by taking a 1⁄16-¼" (2-6 mm) long stitch into the folded edge of one piece of fabric and bringing the needle out. Insert the needle into the folded edge of the other piece of fabric, directly across from the point where the thread emerged from the previous stitch. Repeat by inserting the needle into the first piece of fabric. The thread will be almost entirely hidden inside the folds of the fabrics.

Standard Hand Applique Stitch

stefanie berganini — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 21:24:00 GMT



Standard Hand Applique Stitch

Use this stitch for either the Freezer-Paper (or Template-Plastic)-and-Starch method or the Needle-Turn method. Cut a length of thread 12" to 18" (30.5 to 45.5 cm long). Thread the newly cut end through the eye of the needle, pull this end through, and knot it. Use this technique to thread the needle and knot the thread to help keep the thread's "twist" intact and to reduce knotting. Beginning at the straightest edge of the appliqué and working from right to left, bring the needle up from the underside, through the background fabric and the very edge of the appliqué at 1, catching only a few threads of the appliqué fabric. Pull the
thread taut, then insert the needle into the background fabric at 2, as close as possible to 1. Bring the needle up through the background fabric at 3, 1⁄8" (3 mm) beyond 2. Continue in this manner, keeping the thread taut (do not pull it so tight that the fabric puckers) to keep the stitching as invisible as possible.

Straight Stitch + Running Stitch

stefanie berganini — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 21:24:00 GMT



Straight Stitch + Running Stitch

Working from right to left, make a straight stitch by bringing the needle up and insert at 1, 1⁄8 to ¼" (3 to 6 mm) from the starting point. To make a line of running stitches (a row of straight stitches worked one after the other), bring the needle up at 2 and repeat.

Overhand Knot

stefanie berganini — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 21:23:00 GMT



Overhand Knot

Make a loop with the thread. Pass the cord that lies behind the loop over the front cord, then through the loop and pull snug.

Overcast Stitch (Machine)

stefanie berganini — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 21:22:00 GMT

A machine stitch that wraps around the fabric raw edge to finish edges and prevent raveling. Some sewing machines have several overcast stitch options; consult your sewing machine manual for information on stitch settings and the appropriate presser foot for the chosen stitch (often the standard presser foot can be used). A zigzag stitch can be used as an alternative to finish raw edges if your machine doesn't have an overcast stitch function.

Lazy Daisy Stitch

stefanie berganini — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 21:21:00 GMT



Lazy Daisy Stitch

Working from top to bottom, bring the needle up at 1 and create a loop by reinserting at 1; do not pull the thread taut. Bring the needle back up at 2, keeping the needle above the loop and pulling the needle toward you gently to tighten the loop so that it is flush with the fabric. Tack the loop down by inserting the needle at 3. Repeat for the desired number of stitches.

Lazy Daisy Clusters with French Knots

stefanie berganini — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 21:21:00 GMT



Lazy Daisy Clusters with French Knots

Create three-petal clusters of lazy daisy stitches as shown (with the center petal slightly longer than the others), with a French knot directly across from the base of each cluster.

Herringbone Stitch

stefanie berganini — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 21:19:00 GMT



Herringbone Stitch

Working from left to right and bottom to top, and keeping the length of the stitches and the spacing consistent, bring the needle up at 1 and *insert at 2. Bring the needle back up to the left of 2 at 3, then insert the needle at 4 and bring back up at 5. Repeat from * to continue with the next stitch, overlapping the first.

French Knot

stefanie berganini — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 21:18:00 GMT



French Knot

Bring the needle up at 1 and hold the thread taut above the fabric. Point the needle toward your fingers and move the needle in a circular motion to wrap the thread around the needle once or twice. Insert the needle near 1 and hold the thread taut near the knot as you pull the needle and thread through the knot and the fabric to complete.

Fly Stitch

stefanie berganini — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 21:17:00 GMT



Fly Stitch

Working from left to right, bring the needle up at 1 and insert at 2, leaving the thread loose. Bring the needle back up at 3, keeping the needle above the thread and pulling the needle toward you gently to tighten the thread so that it is flush with the fabric. Tack the thread down by inserting the needle at 4. Repeat for the desired number of stitches.

Cross Stitch

stefanie berganini — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 21:15:00 GMT



Cross Stitch

Working from right to left, bring the needle up at 1, insert at 2, then bring the needle back up at 3. Finish by inserting the needle at 4. Repeat for the desired number of stitches.