Sew Daily

There's So Much to Learn About Sewing Pillows

AmberStitch — Wed, 16 May 2012 08:38:00 GMT

I was on the set of a video shoot with Stitch author Kevin Kosbab last week. We were making a Stitch Workshop video that was mostly about pillows, and I was truly amazed at all of the tricks


	Kevin, on set, has a chopstick among his arsenal of pillow sewing tools.

that Kevin had up his sleeve when it comes to pillows. If you are familiar with any of Kevin's work, you know that he creates dramatic home decor accessories. In fact, I think that everyone on set was charmed. We had filmed over an hour of sewing tips and it is all about pillows! I love learning any new sewing tricks and I definitely walked away with a few. Kevin was also pleased that he had taught us all something new.

I don't want to give away the whole video, but it got me thinking how we learn about sewing. And doesn't most sewing begin with pillows? They are an iconic sewing project. I think it's because the pillow is so easy to sew and so functional to use. When I started sewing in ernest, the pillow was my first project ... about 20 of them, until my husband begged me to stop. But like many simple sewing projects there is always a better way to stitch it up.

For instance, Kevin likes to use a chopstick or knitting needle to poke out the corners of pillows when turning them right side out. It's such a simple solution, but one that I had never been taught or come across. And I make my living from accruing brilliant sewing tips, so it's very much on my radar. Even a simple sewing tip like this makes me deliriously happy. I love it when I think: "I never thought of that!"

We get our sewing knowledge from so many places: family, friends, teachers, books, and online blogs. What I love most is that it's like peeling an onion. The more you search, the more layers of knowledge you find, especially with the most deceptively easy projects..

In Stitch Fall 2012 issue, you can ready Kevin's essay about how he learned many of his techniques from vintage sewing books and his traditional quilting group. He talks about how the projects illustrated in these books and learned in these groups may not be to his taste, but he is able to take valuable techniques and use them to express his aesthetic.

To read Kevin's essay and find plenty of pillow and other home decor projects, check out Stitch Fall 2012 for pre-order in the Sew Daily Shop.

Where do you learn about sewing? And was a pillow your first project? If you have any amazing pillow tips, tell us about it on the Sew Daily blog.

Happy Stitching

Sew Faster without Pins!

AmberStitch — Mon, 14 May 2012 09:12:00 GMT

I just finished working on a Stitch Workshop video with Jil Cappuccio, who owns a great shop for handmade clothing in Denver, Colo., called SEWN. The delightful Jil sews all of the colorful clothes that she sells in her shop. When we


	Jil Cappuccio, shown on set, has the fastest stitch in the west!

talked about making a video, she sent me a shot of some proposed skirts the next day. She mentioned that she had made them the night before--all six of them!

I have never been a fast sewist. I always want to add hand-sewing details to my garments. That's been a real hindrance in my patternmaking class because I spend at least 15 hours sewing each garment--and that's after I draft the pattern!

There are several sample makers in my class who can turn out impeccable garments in 3 or 4 hours, so I've developed a real interest in how they do this. While I've gathered technique tips here and there, the best I can figure out is that they just sew faster and better than I do.

But when I was on set with Jil, I got some concrete tips on how she was able to whip up six cute skirts in an evening, with no more effort than running around the corner for a quart of milk. She doesn't use pins!

Instead, Jil uses notches. For instance, with a front and back piece, she will make clips into the seam allowances with the pieces matched up. When sewing, she feeds the fabric gently through the feed dogs, letting them do the work and being careful to keep the notches matched as she goes. She said that she learned much of her sewing skills during a brief stint as a patternmaker, and I suppose that this could be called an industry technique. And it's definitely one that's helpful in a squeeze for time, whether for a fashion or home dec project.

That's the difference between couture and industry techniques. One is done to achieve a lovely handmade garment and the other is done for speed. Choose your weapon, and use it wisely is all I can say!

Want to practice your pinless stitching on some great surface design projects? Check out thebrand new Surface Explorations eMag in the Sew Daily Shop.

Have you picked up a professional technique that you like to work into your sewing projects? Tell us about it at on the Sew Daily blog.

Happy stitching!

Make Your Projects Look Perfect Every Time With Basting

AmberStitch — Wed, 09 May 2012 09:20:00 GMT

I studied haute couture sewing techniques for several years at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, and I had brilliant teachers who were working professionals. I would love to say that I remember all the amazing techniques I learned, but the truth is that knowledge without works is pretty useless. In other words, I have probably forgotten much of what I learned (which is why I took meticulous notes)!


	Keep your basting stitches straight and proportional to the project size.

But I will never forget the single most important thing that I learned from all those classes: Pin, baste, stitch!

It was an adage repeated endlessly by my professors. It was a sure bet that no matter what we were constructing, whether it was sewing together two side seams, installing a placket, or navigating a tricky collar, we would be told to "Pin, baste, stitch."

Having learned sewing from my mother and grandmother, and home ec classes, I had picked up home sewing techniques, which usually meant pinning and stitching, with little basting.

But the basting is the critical step and is about the only way that you can guarantee a really well-made project, whether it's a garment, accessory or home dec project. The pinning is really only a securing step that allows you to baste properly

I had always thought that basting was a quick sloppy hand stitch that you executed to tack a sleeve to an armhole or a gathered skirt to a bodice. But basting is really an art that should be done as carefully as any other stitching.

I remember so clearly the day a professor showed us the proper way to baste. Here are the steps:

1) Pin pieces together, then lay on a flat surface.

2) Keeping pieces flat, knot a single thread and sew a neat running stitch (see photo). The running stitch should be straight, and the stitch length should be proportional to the project. Smaller pieces require smaller stitches and so forth. Pieces should be secured enough to avoid any slipping of fabric.

3) You will want to run the basting stitch about 1/8 inch inside your final seamline so that the basted threads will not get caught in your final machine stitching and be difficult to remove.

4) Do not knot the other end of your thread when the basting is completed. This way you can remove the basting stitches quickly and easily by pulling the one knotted end. Remove pins.

5) When the basting is finished, you are ready to stitch!

If you aren't basting on a regular basis with your fashion or home dec projects, try it! You will be delighted with the results!

For more great sewing tips, check out the 'Quilting Arts TV' series downloads in the Sew Daily Shop. Definitely not just for quilters!

Do you have a special technique that you find gives you a great result with your sewing projects. Tell us about it on the Sew Daily blog.

Happy stitching!

My Smiley Mug Still Makes Me Smile!

Rose@Stitch — Mon, 07 May 2012 10:00:00 GMT

If you have a piece of fabric, it's possible to get a lot of sewing done with just a needle, thread, and a small sharp scissors. That being said, it is remarkable how many notions, gadgets, book, fabric, and patterns that I own in addition to those three items.


Helpful and cheerful!

I don't apologize for any of it. These supplies are the tools of my trade, and while I occasionally divest myself of the fabrics and books that no longer hold my interest, in general I am more concerned with keeping my studio functioning, inspiring--and a happy place to work.

Having a system helps. Mine involves a heavy dependence on wire-grid drawers. The ironing drawer holds press cloths, iron cleaner, and a little mini-iron that's easy to pack for workshops. The cutting drawer holds scissors, rotary cutters, extra blades, and a handful of seam rippers. And on and on. (And on and on!)

While these drawers are efficient, my two favorite organizational tools are effective and delightful. I keep this Smiley Face Mug from my high school years on the window sill behind my sewing machine to collect the marking tools, bodkins, seam gauges, and everything else that seems to accumulate on my sewing table. And on my ironing table is Little Hen--a cheerful helper I picked up at a flea market years and years ago.

Stitching, smiling, and sentimental. Works for me.


Necessary and joyful!

What do you use to keep the joy in your sewing space? Let us know at SewDaily.com.

Roll-Up Seed Saver Pattern Available on Sew Daily site

Rose@Stitch — Thu, 03 May 2012 16:00:00 GMT

Correction: Summer 2012 Roll-Up Seed Saver Pattern Available as Download

The Stitch Summer 2012 Roll-Up Seed Saver project was not indicated as a downloadable pattern in the magazine. It is available as a downloadable pattern at the following web address:

http://www.sewdaily.com/media/p/6491.aspx.

It can also be accessed from the SewDaily web site via the Projects + Patterns dropdown menu.

Stitch a Secret into a Little Girl's Dress

Rose@Stitch — Wed, 02 May 2012 09:00:00 GMT

Children's garments are so much fun to sew-for so many reasons.


	Add a secret facing to a child's dress.


	This cotton print makes a charming facing.

First, since they are small, almost inevitably they turn out very cute.

Second, they don't take that much fabric.

Third, they don't take too much time.

So, I often find myself making dresses for some of the little girls in my life.

And because the investment in time and materials is so much less than general dressmaking, I find myself enjoying adding little details that are "just for fun".

In the last little pinafore that I made, I added a facing that held a little secret. The dress itself is a soft linen gauze-perfect for hot summer days. But instead of using a facing of the same fabric, I chose a quilting cotton with a random lettering design. Completely invisible from the outside (as a good facing should be), I consider the facing to be a little secret that only this treasured little girl will know about. And some secrets can be very good things.

For your next child's garment, consider adding you own secret facing. Quilting cottons come in such a wide variety of prints and designs, that you are sure to find just the thing to bring a smile to your own little one.

For more great tips and tricks for sewing garments, check out the books Simple Modern Sewing and Cut-Up Couture in the Sew Daily Shop.

Do you have a favorite tip for sewing children's clothes? Let us know on the Sew Daily blog.

Happy stitching!

Rose

Assistant Editor

Stitch magazine

Introducing Stitch Assistant Editor Rosemarie DeBoer

AmberStitch — Wed, 02 May 2012 03:58:00 GMT

Rosemarie (a.k.a. "Rose) is the eagle-eye assistant editor who joined the Stitch staff a few months ago. She relocated to Boston from Chicago and can answer just about every question about


	Stitch Assistant Editor Rosemarie DeBoer

sewing that you can think of, while chasing down typos with a fierce pen. Her background in communications, marketing and graphic design, combined with her passion for both teaching sewing and sewing itself, makes her just perfect for her new role. Rosemarie will be contributing to the Sew Daily Blog and e-newletters on a regular basis, and I hope you look forward to learning her sewing wisdom as much as I am!

Happy stitching!

Add (Almost) Invisible Support to Your Blouse

AmberStitch — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:00:00 GMT

I recently had to make a blouse pattern for my patternmaking class. The blouse had a yoke and the professor said that to provide extra support in the yoke, you could cut 2 pieces. (FYI: The yoke is the separate piece you see often across the back top of a blouse that usually extends over the shoulders to the front.) I really didn't want the bulk of the extra layer of my fashion fabric, so I substituted some silk organza instead.

There are many, many reasons to love silk organza, but its use as an interfacing and sheer support is unparalled. You can see here how I used the organza as an underlining to give the yoke a little heft. Because it's so sheer and pretty, I just finished with an extra line of stitching in the seam allowance and pinked edges.


	The yoke is the top back piece that spans the shoulders.		A sheer layer of organza gives body to the blouse.		The organza layer is treated as an underlining and simply finished.

For more fun projects, check out the pattern sale in the Sew Daily Shop.

Do you have favorite ways to use silk organza? Tell us about it here on the Sew Daily blog.

Happy stitching!

The Coolest Trick Ever for Sewing a Pillow

AmberStitch — Wed, 25 Apr 2012 09:06:00 GMT

I just learned the most amazing tip for sewing a pillow from Modern Patchwork 2012.


	Hanging Flags by Melissa Lunden in Modern Patchwork 2012

Whenever I make a pillow, I always get extra-pointy, floppy corners that look like dog ears. It completely baffles me because I started out with a perfect square. Well, there's a neat solution for that. I found this in the Hanging Flags Fusible-Applique Pillow project by Melissa Lunden. Thank you, Melissa, for solving one of life's great mysteries!

1) Measure and cut your pillow rectangle.

2) Mark the center of each side of the pillow.

3) Mark in 1/2" from the sides of each corner of the pillow.

4) Draw a line from each side's center to each corner, so that the pillow now looks like a slightly squished square.


	Create new curved seamlines inside your pillow rectangle.

5) Trim the pillow along these lines and sew as usual. No more pointy corners!

For more great patchwork projects and tips, check out the thoroughly Modern Patchwork 2012 in the Sew Daily Shop.


	Trim 1/2' from the sides of each corner.

Do you have a brilliant sewing trick up your sleeve? Share it on the Sew Daily blog.

Happy stitching!

Sewing Tricks for Beginners

AmberStitch — Mon, 23 Apr 2012 09:02:00 GMT

Just because you are a beginner sewist doesn't mean that you have to settle for amateurish garments. As a beginner, I found that it's the little touches that make all the difference in how polished and expensive a handmade garment looks

I made this purple satin blouse not long after I had returned to sewing. It was inspired by a runway design and I found a comparable fabric in an inexpensive but pretty polyester fabric. I was careful in making and pressing the blouse, but not quite skilled enough with my sewing machine to manage understitching the facing or topstitching the cuffs with a good result. Instead, I put the handsewing skills I had learned as a Girl Scout to work.

The facing was narrow and the front bow kept pulling it to the outside of the blouse. Rather than understitch, which, in my opinion always has dubious results


	Hand-finished facing.

anyway, I opted to turn the facing under and handstitch it down. Normally, this would not work for a neck facing, but in this case I was very careful to pick up only the smallest thread for minimum show-through to the front, and the bow covered the stitching. If the bow did slide to reveal the stitching, it looked like a hand-picked couture touch.


	The inside of the cuff is handstitched.

I also opted to handstitch the inside of the cuff, rather than topstitch per the pattern instructions. I think the result was much prettier and made the blouse feel extra fancy.

In addition, I bought special faceted buttons for the blouse. Nice buttons can make all the difference in taking a garment from so-so to gorgeous. I also like to collect vintage buttons, so that I am adding something beautiful and unusual to my project.


	A pretty button makes a big difference.

If you are a beginnner, I urge you to make what you love. If you love the fabric and the pattern, you will be more willing to take the time and care that a garment you will keep forever needs. I always recommend taking on an inspiring challenge as I did with this blouse over a traditional "beginner" project. You will learn and develop creative solutions and with a few tricks like these, get a nice result that you will be proud to sport!

For beginner sewing projects, publications and more, check out the fab sale in the Sew Daily Shop.

Do you have any tricks you would like to share with your fellow sewists? Let us know on the Sew Daily blog.

Happy stitching!

Sleeve Plackets Made Simple

AmberStitch — Wed, 18 Apr 2012 09:00:00 GMT

At one time, just the thought of making a sleeve placket made me shudder. I will gladly put 100 hours into a couture tailored suit--just don't ask me to make a sleeve placket for a blouse ... or read instructions on how to do it.

But you know how it is: The thing that you fear most is what keeps coming back to you. And so it is with me and sleeve plackets. In the past three months, I have had to draft a pattern and assemble a blouse sleeve placket for three separate projects. I have not only made my peace with plackets--I have even come to love them and admire them just a little for their elegant knack for finishing a sleeve.

First, to clarify, a sleeve placket is an inserted opening at the end of a sleeve that creates a wider space for the hand to fit through. It's most commonly seen on men's shirts and women's blouses and just like a glass of milk begs for cookies, a placket needs a cuff to finish it properly. If you have a shirt pattern that you want to add a placket opening to or just want to understand the concept for the next blouse that you make, here's a simple way to create and insert a placket:


	Photo 1: The placket is made of two strips.

First, draft your placket. This involves creating two pieces: a 4" x 1" strip and a strip made of a 4" x 1" rectangle and 5 3/8" x 1" elongated house-shaped piece that are adjacent to one another. FYI, the "roof of the house is 3/8" high. Add 1/4' inch seam allowances all around, except for 1/2" at top and bottom lines. (See Photo 1.)

Next, cut out 2 pieces of each of the placket pieces in your fashion fabric and press under the seam allowances to the wrong side of the fabric.

Now comes the hard part. Brace yourself, because I promise it really will be okay. Look at the placket placement on a blouse from your closet. Approximate that spot on your garment sleeves (just behind the outer edge of your wrist) and with a light pencil, mark a 4" Y-shaped line on each sleeve perpendicular to the sleeve bottom edge. The upper branches of the "Y' will be 1/2" tall. Cut into that "Y" along the lines. This slash is where you will attach your placket pieces.

Sew your placket pieces to the trunk of the "Y" with the right sides of the placket pieces against the wrong side of the blouse. The little V-shaped


	Photo 2: Attach placket to blouse sleeve.

tongue of fabric between the upper branches of the "Y' is pressed upward and stitched in place along the bottom. (See Photo 2.)


	Photo 3: Flip pieces and topstitch each in place.

Now, flip the placket pieces to the right side of the blouse sleeves. The bigger piece will have the elongated house on the front and the shorter rectangle on the back. The smaller strip will just fold around to the right side. Topstitch each of the placket pieces in place with all seam allowances turned under. You are done! (See Photo 3.) (I know I didn't talk about the cuff yet. That will have to wait until next time. I think we have learned enough today!)

For more easy patterns, check out Stitch Summer 2012 in the Sew Daily Shop.

Do you have a special feature you like to add to a garment? Tell us about it on the Sew Daily blog.

Happy stitching!

Add Some '40s Flounce to Your Blouse

AmberStitch — Mon, 16 Apr 2012 10:02:00 GMT

You can take a plain mandarin collar blouse from blah to adorable in just a few minutes with some easy pattern drafting. Here's how:

1) Draw a straight line on the front bodice from the mid-shoulder to a point on the center-front that is about 3 inches above the waistline. This will form a sort of triangle that encloses the front neckline, part of the shoulder and center front.

2) Trace the triangle onto a new piece of pattern paper.

A flounce collar sweetens
up a plain blouse.

Draw a line from shoulder to center front.

3) Divide the triangle into eight sections, numbering them from top to bottom. The more sections you have, the more flounce your collar will have.

4) Cut the sections from the outer side to the center, leaving a small hinge at the center front and neckline.

5) Gently place the sections on a new piece of pattern paper. Spread them evenly, so that they look like a curved spine. The more you spread, the more flounce you will get.

6) Tape the sections down and draft in the new flounce piece. Add 1/4" to the side, neckline and center front and 1/2" to the shoulder seam.

7) This is your flounce. Cut two from your fashion fabric and match up the raw edges of the neckline, shoulder and center front of your front blouse pieces. Stitch and then add the collar and placket. Voila! You have a vintage-style flounce on your formerly plain Jane blouse!

For more cute garment ideas, check out I Am Cute Dresses in the Sew Daily Shop.

Spread the sections and
draft in your new collar.

Match up raw edges and sew.

Do you have a clever way that you like to embellish your projects? Share it at SewDaily.com.

Happy stitching!

Sneak Peek! Lace—Magical, Often Mysterious

AmberStitch — Wed, 11 Apr 2012 09:00:00 GMT

We have a guest this week! Below, Jeane Hutchins, editor-in-chief of PieceWork magazine gives us a sneak preview of the May/June 2012 PieceWork:

Learning about some of the people from the past who encouraged the development of various types of lace or depended on it for their livelihoods is the focus of the May/June 2012 issue of PieceWork, our fifth annual look at lace.

Bucks Point lace edging inspired by
lace on the cuffs of an 1843 wedding
bodice in the collection of the Avenir
Museum of Design and Merchandising,
Colorado State University, Fort Collins,
Colorado. Photograph by Joe Coca

Here are just a few of the intriguing people you’ll meet in this issue:

• Born in Germany in 1881, Margarete Naumann spent her life designing and promoting her remarkable hand-knotted lace that she named Margaretenspitze (Margarete’s lace).

• Tessie Leonard, who at eighty-nine still crochets by the window every day, remembers as a child making the clock embellishment in the water-lily motifs that her family worked in Clones Irish Crochet.

Reticella needle-lace motifs
may be appliquéd to clothing
or adapted for jewelry and
inserts. Photograph by Joe Coca

• World War I veteran Chester Ross Bentz, Sr., learned to tat at a Red Cross facility in Europe while awaiting transport back home after the Armistice. Tatting became a lifelong passion for Bentz, who designed and tatted a bedspread for each of his four sons. You’ll also discover reticella (Italian for “little net”), one of the oldest forms of needle lace; Depression Lace, cross-stitch embroidery worked on a gingham ground fabric with a wrapping technique borrowed from needle weaving that creates a lacy appearance; bobbin lace; and knitted lace. Lace is a perfect way to embellish something special—from a hankie to a blouse, from a ring bearer’s pillow to a wedding dress. I so hope you will enjoy PieceWork’s annual look at this magical substance called lace!

Best,

Jeane Hutchins

P.S. Subscribe to PieceWork today and get a free download!

Do you have a passion for lace? Tell us about it on the Sew Daily blog!

Happy stitching!

Extra! Extra! Get Slim Support for Knit Garments

AmberStitch — Mon, 09 Apr 2012 09:00:00 GMT

I recently came up with a neat trick for dealing with a knit garment that I was making with a pattern for woven garments. The fabric was wayyyyy too stretchy for my liking, especially at the waistline, shoulders and sleeve edges, and stay-stitching alone would not improve the situation. With a knit garment, if it's a good, drapey jersey, sometimes just the weight of the fabric can drag the whole garment down.

I learned this the hard way In a fashion draping class, I was making a long sweeping evening coat in a heavy, black jersey, and no other fabric would do. But when you get almost 2 yards of heavy jersey hanging vertically, you need some serious help. My teacher suggested narrow twill tape to reinforce seam lines. It worked like a charm. Clearly, I have a long history of trying to achieve the impossible with knits.

This dress was much less heavy than my black evening coat, and I wanted something prettier to support it. I happened to have a narrow 1/8" cobalt blue ribbon that matched the dress closely and an equally narrow strip of ultralight fusible web. I fused the ribbon to the shoulder seams and raw edges of the sleeve opening and skirt waist. Then I stitched the ribbon in place. The ribbon was narrow enough that it curved easily, so that I didn't need to cut it and arrange in strips around the curve. The fusing kept it in place until I could stitch it down. Presto! I had pretty, yet strong and almost invisible support for these areas that far outperformed stay-stitching.


	The ribbon is fused, then stitched.		A narrow ribbon curves easily.

For more great tips on sewing techniques, check out the Stitch Workshop videos in the Sew Daily Shop.

Have you discovered a neat sewing workaround for a difficult project? Tell us about it on the Sew Daily blog.

Happy stitching.

Free Collection of Hand Sewing Stitches, Techniques, and Patterns

AmberStitch — Fri, 06 Apr 2012 06:37:00 GMT

I first discovered hand sewing stitches as a Girl Scout. As part of the sewing badge that I was earning, I embroidered a small figure on the badge itself, and I remember very clearly how proud and satisfied I was to make the figure’s head out of a French knot. But that was also the last time I would do much handsewing for a while. As I became charmed by sewing clothes, I turned almost entirely to machines to create them, and for many years that remained the bulk of my sewing.


Beaded Fabric Cuff by Tricia Waddell

However, in recent years, I have returned to my first sewing love of hand stitching. I spent a good amount of time studying couture sewing. Hand stitches are a critical component, and it’s possible to make an entire garment without going near a machine. In fact, in many couture house machines mainly gathers dust.

This guide will get you started on hand sewing, and through the artist profile, illustrated how-tos, and projects you will learn a wide range of hand sewing stitches, including my beloved French knot, and you’ll get plenty of practice with wonderful projects.

While hand stitching most certainly has a practical application—before the machine, clothing seams were sewn with the back stitch, as an embellishment technique, hand stitching has few peers. Use hand sewing techniques to make the projects in this guide, from the chic Beaded Fabric Cuff and darling Stitch-and-Stash Labels to the pretty Hexagon Place Mats and Coasters.



	Tips on How to Sew By Hand

Along with these fantastic projects, you will also find a fascinating and inspiring profile of hand sewing revolutionary Natalie Chanin in Handsewing Revolution and an illustrated reference and primer of useful handstitches in Hand-Embroidery Stitches.

I hope that this free eBook: Tips on How to Sew by Hand: Free Collection of Hand Sewing Stitches, Techniques, and Patterns will tempt you to crack out your needle and thread and brush up on your hand sewing skills. Soon you will find there are many aspects of your projects that can be done by hand, which makes them more portable and social. You can do hand sewing in any variety of settings. (I know a dedicated mother who followed her child’s complete soccer season while hand stitching on the sidelines.) Not only do you add creative time to your day, but you inspire others to do the same.

Happy Stitching!

P.S. - Be sure to share this wonderful free eBook with all your friends who enjoy hand sewing!

Keep Your Waistline from Drooping

AmberStitch — Wed, 04 Apr 2012 09:00:00 GMT

For any dress that has a bodice and a skirt, I like to add a waist stay to keep the waistline from drooping. Recently, I was working on a knit dress that was gorgeous, but droopy at the waist, and needed some support.

A stay is basically a grosgrain ribbon that is sewn to the waistline seam of the skirt of a dress. It's a great way to customize your dress on the inside and give that extra bit of support that will keep you looking fabulous. Here's how:

1) After you assemble your skirt and bodice, including inserting the zipper closure, and take a 3/4" to 1" grosgrain ribbon that is an inch or so longer than the width of your waistline.

2) Start at one side of the the dress opening (on the back or side, depending on where your zipper is placed, and turn the beginning of the ribbon under 1/2".

3) On the waistline seam allowances, sew the ribbon to the waist seamline or just above it. I pinned, then basted my ribbon in place first, and machine-stitched it about 1/8" inch above the seamline so that I would be sure not to mess up the seam between the bodice and the skirt. The bottom of the ribbon will align with the waistline and be sure to sew only in the seam allowance.

4) Just before you get to the end of the ribbon, trim so that you can turn it under 1/2" to secure and sew to the end of the ribbon, which should align with the dress opening. Tip: Backstitch just a couple of stitches at the beginning and end of the ribbon to be sure it doesn't come unstitched.

5) Press the ribbon up toward the bodice, just as you press your waistline seam up.

6) Try on the dress to be sure that it fits snugly. You can also add a little hook and eye to the waist stay to keep it extra secure.


	Dress with a droopy waist.		Stitch stay to just above waistline seam.		Finished stay.

Do you want to learn more about customizing your clothes? Check out Customizing Cool Clothes, on sale for 50% in the Sew Daily Shop.

Do you have any special tricks for making your garments look and feel great? Tell us about it on the Sew Daily blog!

Happy stitching!

Add a Pretty and Secure Edge with a Pickstitch

AmberStitch — Mon, 02 Apr 2012 09:00:00 GMT

I prefer to put in a zipper by hand. Closures are so critical to the look of a garment, and I just like the result I get when putting the zipper manually. That's how I fell in love with the pickstitch.

I'm sure you've seen the pickstitch on beautifully tailored garments. It's a stitch with an indented look that you'll often see around the edge of a collar or lapel on well-made suits.

The pickstitch on this jersey dress
zipper is so much more subtle than
a machine version would have been.

While also being pretty, the pickstitch is also marvelously secure because it has a little backstitch, and the backstitch is one of the most secure stitches around. (You could sew an entire garment together using a backstitch, but that's another post!)

Being such a pretty and secure stitch makes the pickstitch the perfect stitch for installing zippers. You get a lovely, couture stitch combined with a tough-as-nails attachment. It's especially great for attaching a zipper to fragile fabrics and I recently used it on zipper for a jersey dress I was sewing. Here's how:

1) Pin your zipper to your garment, aligning it just as you would for machine-stitching.

2) Hand-baste the zipper to the garment about 1/8 inch from where your final line of stitching will be and remove the pins. (Basting ensures that you won't get stuck by the pins as you hand-sew the zipper and makes a more reliable attachment than pinning. Love basting!)

3) With the zipper open, begin your stitch at either the top or bottom of one side of the zipper. Using a double thread with a secure knot, bring your needle up through the wrong side of the garment. (I like to make my first stab between the zipper tape and garment, so that the knot is nested and hidden between the two layers.) You want your line of stitching to be similar to a machine-stitched zipper, about 1/4" away from the edge.

4) Come back down through the right side of the fabric and the zipper tape, making this stab just a smidge behind your initial stab. This is called a half-backstitch.

You can barely see the stitches! 5) Point your needle so that it come up about a 1/4 inch forward of your first stab, coming up through the wrong side again.

6) Make the half-backstitch again, repeating the process along the length of the zipper tape. Do the same for the other side of the zipper tape. (I like to start on the same end of each side to be sure that the zipper is stitched evenly.


	Here is what the right side of a pickstitch looks like.		Here is what the wrong side looks like.		Here is a side view of the pickstitch.

7) The key to a pretty pickstich is to keep that 1/4" stitch spacing consistent and also keep your line of stitching straight.

8) When you finish the pickstitch, knot your thread securely and then make a bar tack at the bottom of the zipper stop to the seam to secure the end of the zipper.

I hope you fall in love with the pickstitch like I have and use it well. It's so easy and can be used as an edge finish in many projects, not just garments.

Want to learn more great techniques? The back issues of Stitch are on sale in the Sew Daily shop!

Do you have favorite hand-stitch? Let me know on the Sew Daily blog!

Happy stitching!

Stitch Summer 2012 Now Available!

AmberStitch — Wed, 28 Mar 2012 09:00:00 GMT

Many of you have been writing to ask me when you can get your copy of Stitch Summer 2012, and I am so excited to let you know that this sunny issue is now available! Now that we are all starting to get a taste of warmer weather, the 34 projects in this issue are right on time.

Stitch Summer 2012 now on sale!

The theme of this issue is--what else--the outdoors, and you will love all the colorful sections, from Fabulous Florals to Fresh Linens to Garden Glories to Beach Party.

The 34 projects range from creations like the simple yet adorable Button Bling Rings by Carolyn Friedlander to the big and comfy Lazy Days Hammock by Carol Zentgraf to the refreshing linen Tiny Patchwork Shower Curtain by Rachel Hauser and clever Convertible Beach Towel-Bag by Ali Winston. You'll find bags, pillows, skirts, and accessories, all inspired by a bumper crop of sunshine. I personally am having a hard time choosing which one to do first!

Beyond the projects, I am also thrilled with the feature articles in this issue, including a profile on Hawaiian bombshell dress designer Alfred Shaheen by Contributing Editor Gretchen Hirsch, a great article by Stitch Technical Editor Mary Walter on smocking that gives this old art a fresh spin, and a sewing summer fabrics story by Linda Griepentrog that is a real keeper.

I can't wait to hear what you think of this issue! To get your copy of Stitch Summer 2012, visit the Sew Daily shop

I would love to hear what your favorite project is in Stitch Summer 2012! Let me know here on the Sew Daily blog.

Happy stitching!

The New Quilting Modern Book Rocks!

AmberStitch — Mon, 26 Mar 2012 09:00:00 GMT

There are so many great new quilting products coming out these days. It seems like every time I turn around there yet another gasp-worthy magazine or book to feast on. The lastest to catch my eye is the book Quilting Modern by Jacquie Gering and Katie Pederson.


	Quilting Modern is a book that both teaches and inspires.

Of course, the book has a grand assortment of gorgeously modern quilts and projects, all crafted with time-honored techniques combined with an updated sense of style. Quilting Modern is worth a gander, if only as eye-candy. But what really impressed me is how thoroughly the book explains how to execute each technique with a modern spin, from free-piecing to log cabin to slice-and-dice, crazy-piecing, and more.

The illustrations are clear and easy to understand, and Jacquie and Katie patiently take readers through the essential how-tos, including quilting basics, tools and materials, color and design and quilting finishing. As a beginning quilter, I defintely felt like I could pick up this book and get a thorough education in quilting, along with creating some amazing projects that would beautify any home.

Jacquie and Katie know their subject matter inside out, as both are actively involved in the modern quilting guilds in their respective cities. Stitch contributor Susan Beal, president of the Portland Modern Quilting Guild, has been giddy about their upcoming book for months and her newfound passion for log cab quilting has piqued my interest, too. Quilting Modern has other Stitch connections as well--regular contributor Missy Shepler created the clear and informative illustrations that are so helpful in conveying the quilting techniques.

There's plenty in Quilting Modern to inspire and inform both beginner and seasoned quilters. Check it out in the Sew Daily shop.

Is there a quilting technique that you have fallen in love with recently, like log cabin or crazy-piecing. Tell us about it on the Sew Daily blog.

Happy stitching!

Loving Modern Patchwork

AmberStitch — Wed, 21 Mar 2012 09:00:00 GMT

I mentioned a few posts ago that I am fast turning into a "crossover quilter" with all the exposure that I am getting from the quilting editors in my office. Well, I have gotten a look at Modern Patchwork 2012, and I think that I will be definitely trying out one of these vibrant patchwork projects.

Modern Patchwork 2012.

Patchwork seems to me to be so accessible, as it can be incorporated into a variety of projects or used to create one big project like a quilt. Stitch gets its own fair share of patchwork projects, as we like to mix it up with our sewing work. I thought you might be interested in hearing more about what the special issue has to offer:

There are dozens of projects to choose from, but the magazine is neatly organized into five sections: Kitchen & Dining, Quilts, Gifts & Accessories, Bags and Totes, and Home Decor. In the Kitchen & Dining section, I am eyeing the Scrappy Oven Mitt by Kaelin Telschow or Quick & Easy Coasters by Debbie Grifka. In the Quilts section, I wouldn't mind trying my hand at the colorful Summersville Blooms Quilt by Lucie Summers, and in Gifts & Accessories the Cell Phone Case by Mary Claire Allen has caught my eye.

I can never have enough handbags, so the Patchwork Evening Clutch by Amy Ellis in Bags & Totes is a must, and for my home, I can't decide between the Set of Nesting Baskets by Candy Glendening or Modern Mirror by Jane Davila.

In addition to all these fun and modern projects, you'll find lots of informative features about hanging small quilts, spring fabrics, and more.

To get a look at Modern Patchwork 2012, now available for pre-order in the Sew Daily Shop. Have you tried incorporating any patchwork into your sewing projects? Tell us about it and share your work on the Sew Daily blog.

How to Keep Your Garments from Sagging

AmberStitch — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 09:00:00 GMT

I was recently working on a garment for the Fall 2012 issue, and I had made the mistake of falling in love with an inappropriate fabric. It was not the best decision, but I was in love and didn't care. My pattern that I had drafted was for a woven fabric and I had a lovely cobalt blue wool jersey, that was substantial in weight, but with more stretch than a doubleknit. (FYI, doubleknits are the only knits that can be reliably substituted for use with patterns designed for woven fabrics.)

I had rotated my dart to the side seam andI dutifully made my muslin in a comparable fabric, and, oh dear, the French dart was really loose and saggy--not good. (A French dart angles up to the bust from a side seam.) I made a quick lifeline call to a sewing expert buddy and she suggested that perhaps because the dart was on the bias, it was stretching and causing the bustline to sag.

Her solution was to reinforce the dart with a very lightweight fusible interfacing. I chose a light woven fusible and ran the crossgrain along the bias. The crossgrain of a woven fabric has the least amount of stretch, giving me that extra reinforcement that I needed with a wool jersey on the bias.


	On the muslin, the darts were sagging.		I reinforced the darts on the seamline.

I fused it right on top of the dart seam line after I had sewn the dart. The result was not too pretty on the inside, but when I put the garment on the dress form, it was fantastico!


	I fused the interfacing right on top of the dart.		The final bodice fits the form perfectly!

I used this technique for doing something a little unorthodox with a knit (i.e. treating it as a woven), but it is a great technique for any seamline that needs reinforcement, especially on the bias. The only thing I would do differently next time is to be a little neater in cutting my interfacing!

If you are itching to try this out on a new project, check out the bumper crop of patterns from Stitch Fall 2011 that are now available for download in the Sew Daily Shop.

Do you have a sewing buddy lifeline? You know, that one person--your mom, your best friend, your sister--who you can call with your burning sewing questions? Tell us about it on the Sew Daily blog.

Happy stitching!

Make Your Space Sew-Inspired

AmberStitch — Wed, 14 Mar 2012 08:58:00 GMT

When I came to work at Interweave, I was very impressed with how each of the editors here took a small and nondescript workspace and made it into something that reflected both themselves and the publications they work for. They inspired me to mold my own space to be a place that would inspire me about sewing each day.

I tried to bring items into my workspace that I love and that remind me of what a great craft magazine I work for. I feel so lucky to be involved with sewing for my work!

On one wall, I hung some favorite fashion illustrations that I have drawn and next to them stands a vintage dress form that is often wearing a garment from a current issue. In the corner, I have a knick-knack stand that belonged to my great-grandmother that I have painted an acid green. It holds a few sewing-related items, including a basket of notions for anything that needs a quick fix. More importantly, it keeps the spirit of my great-grandmother close at hand. She loved to sew and was a published poet. I like to think that she helps me write on those days when I am having writer's block!

On my bulletin boards, I have posted an issue inspiration board, including all the projects and palettes from the current issue so that I can see the upcoming magazine at a glance. I also have other images that inspire me, as well as a first place ribbon my puppy won at a recent show. It's just a few simple touches, but they keep me in touch with my craft and make my space happy and personalized.


	My corner curio stand handed down from my great grandmother.


	My issue inspiration board!


	My fashion illustrations and a dress form sporting a garment from the latest issue.

Speaking of happy and personalized spaces, have you seen Studios Spring 2012? It's filled with all sorts of amazing studios and workspaces from all over the country. On every page I look at there is another great idea for storage or eye candy. You can find it in the Sew Daily Shop.

How have you personalized the spaces in your life to remind you of sewing and inspire you in your craft? Tell us about it on the Sew Daily blog!

Happy stitching!

I am a Crossover Quilter

AmberStitch — Mon, 12 Mar 2012 09:00:00 GMT

I have to be truthful here. I have never been much of a quilter, although I come by the art honestly. My great-grandmother created intricate handstitched quilts that are family heirlooms to this day, and my grandmother was just as much of an artist with her machine-stitched quilts. However, I have always been more of a fashion sewist, although I have started (but not completed) my fair share of quilting projects. In particular, I fell in love with Hawaiian appliquee quilts on my honeymoon and spent a good chunk of my vacation at fabric stores in search of tropical quilting fabrics.


	The new issue of Quilting Arts in Stitches Volume 6 has a plethora of inspiration for sewists.

But since I have started working at Stitch, I have had a fortunate exposure to quilting. Basically, I work in quilting central. First, the Quilting Arts Magazine editor, Vivika DeNegre, sits not ten paces from my office and she is always showcasing some gorgeous project or another in her office. And the technical editor for Stitch, Mary Walter, is a talented quilting artist and distinguished quilting judge and teacher. I have plans to attend her Tuesday night local quilting class, to work on a couple of abandoned quilting projects (one inherited from my mother's pile of unfinished projects via my grandmother!) and an Amish quilt wedding gift in the pipeline. In short, I am surrounded and have surrendered to the craft!

The fact is that there are many aspects of quilting that have always appealed to me. Being inclined toward couture hand sewing, I love the idea of hand-quilting. It's something that can be done in pieces and is easily portable and social. So much of my sewing locks me away in a room. With a quilting project, I can hang with the hubby in front of the TV and still make progress on a project.

Not only that, but the quilters are at the forefront of so many advances in the industry. They have the best tools, techniques and are doing wondrous things with textiles, both in terms of surface design and new fabrics. In the past few years, the beauty of quilting fabrics has been nothing short of mind-blowing and they just keep getting better. I have used many a quilting fabric for a garment project. And of course, Stitch magazine is home to many crossover quilting projects.

So I am really excited to let you know that the latest issue of Quilting Arts in Stitches, Volume 6, is now available. Not only is the multimedia e-mag stuffed with digital advantages like colorful slideshows, pan-and-zoom photographs, informative video and detailed illustrations, but it also is just plain mouthwatering. You'll find plenty of inspiration, including the history and future of redwork embroidery, making giant 3-D leaves with Wabi-Sabi stitching, and tips on free-motion quilting.

Do you have a crossover craft that you dabble in? Talk about it on the Sew Daily blog.

Happy stitching!

Pass On Your Passion for Sewing - And You Could Win

AmberStitch — Fri, 09 Mar 2012 16:57:00 GMT

Sewists are a passionate group. Who else could get so excited about a new line of spring fabrics or an easy way to adapt a pattern? And we love to pass on our passion to others. In fact, I bet most of you learned how to sew from your mom, grandmother, aunt, or an enthusiastic teacher.

To celebrate National Craft Month, Sew Daily and Interweave's other art and craft communities (Quilting Daily, Jewelry Making Daily, Cloth Paper Scissors Today, Beading Daily, Knitting Daily, and Crochet Me) have chosen to "pass on our passion" for art and crafts by teaching a friend (or two or three . . . ) to sew, create mixed-media art, collage, fabric art, jewelry, watercolor paintings, quilts, or any other technique or project you've always wanted to try throughout the month of March.

Right now, I'm particularly passionate about patternmaking, as I'm taking a class in the subject. And I have loved passing on my newfound techniques with you through this blog. Judging by the response, you've enjoyed reading about them, too. I also can't wait to see your response to the new Summer 2012 issue of Stitch. That's something I've been passionate about for months!

How will YOU pass on your passion? Leave a comment about it to win!

Now it's your turn to share. Who are you planning to teach sewing techniques to in March? Tell us how you are passing on your passion during National Craft Month! Simply comment on this post for your chance to win a copy of Cut-up Couture: Edgy Upcycled Garments to Sew and Sewing Tips & Tricks with Tricia Waddell (DVD) (one gift for you and one for you to give your friend!). We'll randomly choose one lucky winner from all the comments at 9 a.m. Eastern Time on Friday, March 23, so comment before then for your chance to win.

This giveaway sweepstakes is open to U.S. residents (excluding Puerto Rico), and Canadian residents (excluding Quebec); 18 years old or older at the time of entry. Click here to read the official rules.

Now, go pass on your passion!

Happy Stitching!

Send us your ideas for the Winter 2012 issue!

AmberStitch — Thu, 08 Mar 2012 18:28:00 GMT

The deadline is looming and we are looking for projects for the Winter 2012 issue. Get inspired this weekend and send us your project ideas by Monday, March 12. For more information, see the submission guidelines.

Can't wait to see what you send!